The Rest is Memory
Tom Waits' Whittier
Words by Erin Fletcher
Passthrough, photo by Erin Fletcher
We look at the world once, in childhood.
The rest is memory.
— Louise Glück, “Nostos”
As the digital archivist of the History Room at the Whittier Public Library, the demographic I help most often is baby boomers nostalgic about their childhoods. They want to know if we have any material on the pastime of cruising Whittier Boulevard. Or they want to know if we have any photos of the Union Pacific train depot that used to be on Philadelphia Street. Built in 1918, it was demolished in the middle of the night in November 1983, depriving Whittier of an Old Spaghetti Factory.
Union Pacific Ticket Office, Whittier Public Library Historical Photograph Collection
Other popular research questions relate to famous Whittierites of the past. The most famous of these is arguably Richard Nixon, who attended high school and college here, and who met his wife Pat at a 1938 Whittier community theater production of The Dark Tower. History buffs are also aware of Pío Pico’s connection to the town. He was the last governor of California under Mexican rule, and his home in what later became Whittier is now preserved as a historic site. It is less widely known that musician and gravelly-voiced singer Tom Waits is also from here. When I first became entranced with the Tom Waits' song “Kentucky Avenue,” from Blue Valentine (1978), I did not know I was listening to a baby boomer who, like one of my researchers, waxes poetic about the Whittier of his childhood. At first listen, I heard a song about 1950s boyhood hijinks (smoking, jumping from a roof, killing rattlesnakes, breaking windows, stealing boysenberries, slashing school bus tires). On second listen, the child Waits addresses in the song emerged, a boy in a wheelchair with braces on his legs. On third listen, I heard a song about the magical realism of childhood memories.
The day I spotted Tom Waits on a Wikipedia list of notable Whittierites, I followed Internet rabbit holes to the revelation that the “you” in "Kentucky Avenue" was a friend of Waits who survived polio. I wondered if the rest of the people in the song - Eddie Grace, with his bullet-riddled Buick, Mrs. Storm, with her steak knife, and all the rest - were the real names of his neighbors. This sent me to the History Room's collection of city directories, to see if I could find any of them.
Charlie DeLisle lived at 10162 Grovedale Drive.
Mrs. Storms lived at 15989 Graceldo Lane, and Ronnie Arnold lived at 15975 Graceldo Lane.
Eddie Grace lived at 10109 Kentucky Avenue, and the Waits family lived at 10103 Kentucky Avenue.
While I was paging through city directories with the song “Kentucky Avenue” playing on repeat, I felt vaguely jealous of Tom Waits. In 1983, serial killer Ottis Toole kidnapped and murdered Adam Walsh, who was six years old. Media response to the tragedy ushered in the era of Stranger Danger, putting an end to the freedom Waits and his generation enjoyed as children. By 1990, when I was six years old in Whittier, the town had grown to 77,867 people, from the sleepy 1950 suburb
of 23,433.
Growing up in a town of 50,000 more strangers, with 50,000 more cars, and candy to potentially lure children into them, meant that my friends and I did not ramble around stealing boysenberries. Too, the houses built on former orchard fields to accommodate the post-war population boom meant there were no fields, no berries to steal.
The jealousy was replaced by excitement as I looked up the houses on Google Maps. I could go to Kentucky Avenue, to the world of the song. On my lunch break, I did.
Google Maps
I thought about listening to “Kentucky Avenue” on earbuds as I walked, but decided not to. The (vague) idea I had was to pretend I had traveled back in time, trying to see the neighborhood as it looked in the 1950s, as if I were Waits. He didn't listen to the song while he roamed these streets, so I didn't either. I started on Grovedale Drive. The street is not a real street; it is almost a private lane, too narrow for two cars to pass side by side. A sign warns to go no faster than 10 mph. I looked up at the tall tree in Charlie DeLisle’s yard and imagined him sitting at the top of it, eating an avocado. Shaded from the heat, unseen from the street.
I walked down to the end of the street, where I found a small strip of concrete between two properties that leads to Graceldo Lane. This is the most natural pedestrian route between the DeLisle house and the Waits house.
Passthrough
Mrs. Storms’ house no longer has a lawn. It's xeriscaped, with rocks, mulch and trees. An orange tree, a pine tree. I walked close and crunched one foot onto the small white rocks on the property. The ghost of Mrs. Storms holding a steak knife did not appear.
The Arnold house has a tall flagpole with an American flag that hung limply in the heat. I imagined Ronnie as a defiant redhead with freckles, leaning against the pole with one arm around it, as Tom Waits and his friend Kipper spat at him and flipped him off.
Eddie Grace’s house has a huge circular driveway, an excellent setting for a Buick riddled with bullet-holes.
The house where Tom Waits lived is unremarkable. All of them are. Wide, ranch style houses, which Redfin informed me have three or four bedrooms and two bathrooms. Most built in 1953. Worth between $640,000 and $852,000 today. On Kentucky Avenue and Graceldo Lane there's no shade, no sidewalks, no streetlights. Dead hot and dead quiet. The sun bleached streets are wide, built to accommodate car culture. The houses do not appear to be renovated since the 1950s, and there are no other signs that the neighborhood looks much different than it did when Waits lived there. But my vague aim, to somehow portal into the song by walking around its setting, had failed. The neighborhood of "Kentucky Avenue," peopled by Waits' neighbors and seen through his eyes, is gone.
On the drive back to work, I listened to "Kentucky Avenue" and thought about the paradox of being driven to research a topic that holds a spark of magic in it, and the inadequacy of research as a tool to capture that spark. The fiction in this story is the notion I held, that the spark can be captured by research, or at all. The closest I can get to Tom Waits' mystical, enchanted Whittier is to listen to his song.
Erin Fletcher is the digital archivist of the Whittier Public Library History Room. Her newsletter on writing from archives can be found at erinrachelfletcher.substack.com.