Moth Pheromones

Ensuring the safety of a museum costume and textile collection can be a delicate balance. One of the most difficult elements to control are pests: silverfish, carpet beetles, and especially moths can cause serious harm to artworks. While appreciated for their historical importance by us, costume and textiles made of silk, wool, cotton, or other natural fibers just look delicious to them. For moths, the dim lighting and abundance of protein-based textiles in our collection provide the perfect setting for moths to mate. Unfortunately, it is the resulting larvae from this coupling that are responsible for the damage to museum objects.

Collections management employs specific methods to combat this problem, and even though every precaution is taken, occasionally moths find a way into the collection. If a moth is spotted, pheromone traps are used to control the population. Moths are active primarily at night and this is when female moths release a sex pheromone to attract potential mates. Male moths are equipped with receptors on their antennae that identify the females’ sex vibes. Collection staff make use of this mating ritual by placing synthetic pheromones inside of a sticky glue trap. Enticed by the prospect of sex, the male moth flies to his eventual death. Being driven by sex can lead to questionable decisions, and the male moth is no different.

Image courtesy of Christina Frank 2018

Walter van Beirendonck Inflatable Jacket

Walter van Beirendonck is an innovative and boundary-defying designer who draws inspiration from a wide variety of sources such as art, music, politics, technology, pop culture, and sex. The theme of sex is seen often in van Beirendonck’s designs through the use of imagery related to S&M, fetishism, and idealization of the male form. This inflated jacket, from the Wonderland collection (Fall/Winter 1996-1997) is an excellent example of his work with these concepts. The jacket features stylized muscles created by cushions of air inflated by valves that also represent nipples. In theory, by donning this jacket the wearer can hide imperfections and present an ideal silhouette without the effort of diet and exercise.

Made of unstable polyvinyl chloride (PVC), the jacket presents challenges for long-term preservation. As it ages, the jacket will likely weep plasticizers and can emit acidic vapors. Despite all efforts to store the piece safely, the jacket will continue to degrade over time. Perhaps this is part of Walter van Beirendonck’s satirical take on the perfection of the human form: that no ideal body, whether naturally or artificially achieved, will last forever. As challenging as it is for us to slow the degradation process of the jacket, so it is impossible for humans to completely defy the progression of time and the effect is has on our bodies.

Wild and Lethal Trash, Ensemble from the “Wonderland” collection (Inflatable Jacket), Fall/Winter 1996-1997, Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), by Walter Van Beirendonck. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Gift of Walter Van Beirendonck (M.2014.87.6a-f). Digital photo © Museum Associates/ LACMA

Christina Frank and Jennifer Iacovelli are Collections Administrators at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. They are both currently assisting in an inventory of the Costume and Textiles collection. 

are Collections Administrators at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. They are both currently assisting in an inventory of the Costume and Textiles collection.